Consumers can get comfort and performance at old-school gorp purveyors like Seattle’s REI, or high fashion boutiques like Dover Street Market, where hiking shoes go toe-to-toe-literally-with designer footwear. The changing of the guard that Macklemore is talking about is evident in the retail landscape. “I think there’s a juxtaposition between the high fashion world, and the lack of functionality that comes from a pair of $1,200 Balenciagas that look like they’re size 16 when they’re size 10, and the functionality of wanting to have a rain jacket, or hiking shoe,” he says. Not dressing for Instagram, but for real life. Macklemore thinks the rise of gorp is about feeling good and living with what you’re wearing. “People are flipping what’s been popular around here for decades now.” “Following that, all of a sudden Salomon or Marmot starts becoming cool, these brands that were synonymous with my dad, or the outdoor person in Seattle,” he continues. “You watched it years ago with the dad shoes, when the Pete Carrolls became a go-to sneaker,” he says referring to the Seahawks coach’s Nike Monarchs, which had a moment with the gorp antecedent “normcore.” And he contributes to present-day Seattle fashion with his golf-inspired sportswear line, Bogey Boys, which he designs. His 2012 breakthrough song “Thrift Shop” testified to the original source of the grunge movement’s fashion: local secondhand clothing stores. “There’s definitely been a changing of the guard,” says Seattle rapper Macklemore. More broadly in pop culture, the mainstream is anti-mainstream.
Conspicuous consumption in men’s and women’s wear today has a lot to do with “stealth wealth,” with logos receding a bit. And if you do take the time to learn about the history, it’s so steeped in anti-fashion it’s almost self-negating: anti-materialist, anti-glamor, anti-glitz.Īnd yet, non-commericality is trending right now. Granted, part of the non-recognition of Seattle style is likely because the Pacific Northwest is exotic and far away to most of the country, almost like a place that doesn’t really exist. It’s since evolved into a slang term for the aesthetic of technical outdoor gear that was originally worn for functionality, but which has become fashionable in the past five or so years.
And gorp (terrible word, but we’re using it) means “good old raisins and peanuts,” aka trail mix. Grunge style basically means dressing like Kurt Cobain (501s, cardigans, flannels, granny glasses). Before we continue, let’s get our lexicon in order.
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